Method of making shoes



Patented Oct. 12, 1943 2,33l,34&

STAT EiSi- PATENT FFICE METHOD=F=MAKING1 SHGESL ohni n oh omissburs Ba, Application July e1, 1940; Serial No. 348,625

7 Claims,

This application is a continuation in part of my applications for patents filed October- 10', 1938, Serial Numbers 234,318 and-234,319; respectively.

This application covers subject-matter disclosed inmy co -pendingapplications for patents filed'October 1 0; 1'938, Serial Numbers 234,31'8 and 234,319; respectively, now-Patents N timbers-2,2 1 552 and 2,212,553, dated August 27, 1940.

My invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, slippers, and similar articlesof footwear, andicomprises an improved method; of procedure including the steps of lasting the upper and confining-it to the last; thereafter confiningsuch lastedupper in position to receive a sole, and applying a sole thereto which may be cemented 0r st c ed n pl e In lasting the upper in accordance with my method of procedure, no tacks orother extraneous holding means passing throughthe upper and into the last or carriedby the latterare employed;

In carrying; out my invention the upperis placed upon a last andfwith the last: is mounted; upon asupport in the position oi wear,- In such positioning; of the upper, the edge of the same projects outwardly-and beyond the sole of the last and to this projecting portion traction is applied to cause the uppgr-tdoyeflie thelast-in a taut conditionand' simultaneously hold the same to the last.

Following thispulling overoperation the lasted upper is to; be heldwith theupper-inthe taut and stretched condition for further operations in cludingthe wiping of the projecting-portion of the upperand the application of asole to complete the-formation oiia shoe. For this purpose I-providea contractile recess which the lasted upper may be confined inthe taut; pulled' overcondition, and after -it is so confined, the traction holding it-in the taut conditignisreleased.

After the lasted upperisconfined; withinthe contractile recess, the; projecting portion of the same is wiped, and this wiping-may be outwar-dly if ashoeof'onetype is to b'e made, or inwardly, ifrashoe of another typeistobe-made;

Following this operation, a sole is applied usuall ovenan: insole. previously appliedto the last. before. thepulling-over. step-and such ap plied solelmay belsewn, cemented; or otherwise applied tothe lasted upper. Prior. tothe application ofsthe outer sole, the. wiped portionof the upper has=been rasped, and such wipedfportion and the; insole have. been! coated; with a. suitable cementitiousbody. Theisolel may beclamped to the lasted upper and in some instances: the cementingstep may be the sole means of securing? the sole to thelasted upper.

As-illustr'ating mechanism which may be employedin carrying out the method or process; ofi my present invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawing, more: or less diagrammatioin character, in which:

Figure 1' is-a cross sectionalview: ofone form-oft pulling-over mechanism, which may be portable and which may employ; such view showing a last with an upper positioned thereon disposed: upon a table portion of the pulling-over device and'gr-ipping means for engaging a portion ofthe upper, in the open or inoperative position.

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the gripping means of the pulling-over device in the closed position; the-upper having been stretched over the last'and-hel'd'in such position, ready for trans-'- fer to a sectional mold providing a contractile spacewherein it is clamped in the pulled-over and stretched condition.

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a sectionalmold provid ing: the contractile space.

Fig; is alongitudinal sectional elevation showing the pulled-over upper on the last;- clamped in the sectional'mold'.

Fig. 5 is a: cross-sectional view showing the pulled-over upper clampedin the sectional mold and readyfor theapplication of'wiping members:

6 is a similar sectional view showing'wiping members in active position over the last and upper.

Fig. 'Tis a view showing another arrangement of theupper-andlast with respect to the sectional mold; and

Fig. 8 is a similar view, showing a portion of the upper wiped outwardly forthe'reception of a sole.

An important .featureof my inventionresides in the provision of means for holding an upper toa last without the application of tacks or other extraneous holding means passingthrough the upper and designed or intended tohold-the upper in position during the lasting operation and the subsequent application of a sole in the completion of the-sh0e. A common practice is to tack the upperin place upon the last, andmeanshave been employedt'o effect the pulling-over step of'a lasting: operation and simultaneously apply. a series of=tacks to holdthe upper to-theelast; This tacking: operation is objectionable for several reasons, among which'may'be mentioned the necessity: of removingthe tacks from the upper and last before=the outsoleissecured to the upper, and-the further danger of tacks breaking off and leaving a projecting portion within the shoe.

In carrying out my improved method or process, the operator takes a last and places thereon an upper; holding the same in his hand and properly positioning the upper with respect to the centre of the last. He then pulls the upper forward on the last so that the heel portion of the upper engages the curved heel portion of the last and is substantially flush with the top of the same (in the case of low shoes) and is in proper position with respect to the heel counter (in the case of high shoes) and then the operator places the last with the upper on it in position to have traction applied to the overhanging or projecting portion of the upper-more particularly at the toe portion of the same-and pull the same tautly over the last; such traction means simultaneously locking the lasted upper to the last so that it may be picked up and inverted over the contractile recess and placed therein and clamped thereto beforethe traction is released; after which the several operations described may be carried out while the last and positioned upper are retained 'in the contractile recess.

For the purpose of pulling over the upper upon a last without the use of tacks, I may employ the means shown in my co-pending application, Serial No. 234,319 (now Patent No. 2,212,553). This means may comprise a portable holder such as illustrated in said patent; sectional views of which are shown in Figs. 1 and 2. This pullingover device includes a frame I, which may be substantially horse-shoe shape in contour (as shown in said patent) having flanges 2 and 2*, and these flanges carry in a semicircle, which may correspond substantially to the toe contour of the upper, a plurality of sets of complemental jaws forming nippers and comprising a series of lower jaws 3, carried by rods 4 passing through the flanges 2 and 2 In addition, the holder has a support in the form of a table or plate 'lupon which the last and positioned upper are placed, as indicated in Figs. 1 and 2, with the projecting or overhanging portion a: of the upper positioned relatively between the respective jaws of the several sets of nippers. The last and upper are placed on the table I of the frame I after the upper has been properly positioned, and then this portable holder is placed upon a table beneath a series of vertically movable plungers 8, which register with the rods 5 carrying the jaws 5 .of the nippers, in the manner indicated in my Patent No. 2,212,553, before referred to; the plungers 8 being indicated in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawing herewith.

If it is necessary to assist in the positioning of upper and last upon the table or support 'I of the holder l and with respect to the plungers B which act upon the rods 6 carrying the upper jaws 5, I may provide a pad arranged to lie over and engage the toe-portion of the upper, as illustrated in my Patent No. 2,212,553.

The faces of the gripping jaws may have complemental gripping means. or the upper jaws alone may have a series of projections 5' over their engaging faces and when the plungers 8 are moved downwardly into engagement with the rods 6 carrying said upper i aws 5. which operation may be effected by suitable mechanism, the said jaws 5 engage and pull down the projecting portion a: of the upper and clamp the same tightly with the lower jaw 3; continued movement of the plungers 8 lowering the closed jaws with the engaged upper until a satisfactory limit of movement is reached and the upper is stretched tautly over the last. To hold the nippers in this position, the rods 6 may carry blocks 6* having notched portions, and spring-pressed latches l0,

supported on pins H) carried by the lower flange 2 of the holder l have projections l0 adapted to engage these notched portions of the blocks (5 as the rods 6 are lowered under the influence of the plungers 8. The lower edges of the blocks 6 are preferably beveled at 6 and the upper ends of the latches are preferably beveled at II] to facilitate engagement. The rods 4 and 6 may be square. or round. If round, they are preferably provided with keys so that they will be prevented from turning during their movement into and out of clamping position.

From the position shown in Fig. 2, the holder I with the last and upper thereon may be transferred to a sectional mold, such as illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4. The holder i is inverted for this transfer; the sectional mold having engaging portions following the contour of the last over which the upper is stretched, and these engaging portions are then brought into gripping contact with the stretched upper so as to hold it securely in the pulled-over condition for further operation thereon.

The sectional mold element is shown in Figs. 3 and 4, and may be of the type illustrated in my co-pending application, Serial No. 234,318 (now Patent No. 2,212,552). This mold element, which may be mounted upon a suitable table, may comprise a base member l2, having engaging or gripping portions l3, pivotally connected to such base at l3. The upper portions of the gripping members have contour internally like that of the last and the upper positioned thereon to be engaged thereby. In practice I have employed a mold having nine gripping portions or elements; two for the heel portion, one each for the sides, and five for the toe portion of the lasted upper, as clearly illustrated in the plan view, Fig. 3, showing the sections of the mold in the closed position, and without last and upper. It is normally held in this position by the levers I4, and when the upper with the last is to be placed in the mold; these levers are retracted, in the matter set forth in my Patent No. 2,212,552, and then the sections of the mold may be moved outwardly to receive the upper on the last. After the upper on the last is set in the mold and before it is released from the holder of the pulling-over device, the levers M are pressed into engagement with the mold sections and the latter grip the upper and hold it against the last in the same condition in which it was prepared by the pulling-over device. ready to receive further operations, which may include the positioning of a sole. The mechanism for operating the levers I4 is fully disclosed in m Patent No. 2,212,552, before referred to.

The mold may carry a pair of adjustable supports l9 and 20 upon which the last and positioned upper may rest, as illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4; support [9 being in the form of a threaded pin which may enter the usual thimble of the last, while the support 20 is vertically movable on a stem ill to which it may be held by a set screw 20*. After the upper on the last has been finally clamped in the mold, it is ready to have the projecting portion of the upper wiped down.

If the wiping or leveling operation is to be inward of the upper, as illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6, this leveling operation may be effected by wiD- lngrmembers whiol r-engage-the projectiiog portion of the upper at the; fame and? rear of the same; and' alsdat the sides-thereof. insole; sucha's indicated: at y is" placed? over; the last: and then thewiping operation'iscarriedtout: Figs; andgfir' showwiping members'zfi andf 21" which press the projectingportion-o: OT'tIiBHRQBIfQVEI' the insole y during the' wiping operation: It. willb'e understood of; coursei .thatthe wiping v operation is. car-t ried onsimultaneously aJLaroimditheupper; this.

stop being, fully setihforthv in. my Batent; No, 212552..

Itzwill. also be. understood that,. while I.Jhave shown. wiping members i designed, to. level the lasteduppen by displacing the ;proj,eeting;-.-p.ortion: oilthe uppers inwardly-ove1=. the insole doarriod by,- modest-.1 may employ wiping memberserranged to the placed-sup on:suchiinsoleoetheebottom 0f the. last within: the. space defined by, the projecting; portion of the upper whiehdssupstanding;inathe position. shown in Eigse. landed and; actuate the semeste -wine suchrprojeeting; portions outwardly, so: that it. may be pos-itioned: as a; flangevwith. respecttto: theeupper;.and unumwhioh a-solemay; bani h d: and stitchedith retoi In suchiinstance I: employ, am intermediatewlayerof? material; such assindicated. 31;;2; which; may GXi'JBDdZOVBI the: entire insole; suelr. interposed layer,- being leveledloutwardlyfbmthe-wiping membBrstogethe-n withstheprojecting portion :1: OfthBallIlIlBP-s Whenzthea stretched-upper and lastccarrying thecsame have been finallwpositioneddn the con-- tractilespaceprmidedaby the sectional. mold arid-v held the same,;they, are released; from the; holder: I by disengagin thmgripping; jaws: 3 and 5-ifltomthe.-projectingpcrtiomx oflthe-upperi and; thiSriS effectedxbmrreleasing; therlatchesz H! which; have served to hold said jaws in the gripping; positionz. Bypreferencerthese latches are simultaneously released and this operation may be effected by means of an actuating member in the form of a yoke-shaped plate I l pivotally connected to the base of the holder l and normally held in the plane of the same, as indicated in Figs. 1 and 2. This plate II is normall maintained in the inactive position, as fully set forth in my Patent No. 2,212,553. The inner edge of the plate II is provided with a cam face H formed by beveling the same as indicated in Figs. 1 and 2, and this cam face is in operative position with respect to the ends of the latches Hi When in their holding position, as indicated in Fig. 2. The lower ends of the latches are preferably beveled as indicated at Hi and when the holder is in the inverted position over a sectional mold, they may be simultaneously released from their engagement with the notched portions of the blocks 6 carried by the rods 6 by pressure applied by the plate H. which may be given a sharp blow by the operator. For this purpose the plate ll may have a projecting portion at the front to which such blows may be imparted. The latches I!) have a loose connection with the pins 19 and when they are engaged by the plate I l for release, they are pushed against the springs I0", which restore them to the position shown in Fig. 1, whereupon the rods 6 are permitted to rise. When the latches ID are released, the rods 4 and 6 may be returned to normal position, thereby opening the jaws 3 and 5 by the action of the springs 4 and 6, encircling said rods 4 and 5; the springs 4 lying between fixed collars 4 carried by the rods 4 and the flange 2 while the springs: 6 lie betweem theblocksc 6e ands said; flange 2% I B y reason' ofithe -fact that 'thectraotion means. to-pull over andstret'ch'the upper in: taut rcondie tion-upon thelast; are'applied more: particularly: at the-toe portion of the-upper; the latter-is urgeds forward upon the last; insuring that-'3: the. heel; portion of tlielast snugly: fits' the =heelip0r-ti01r on the lasted upper "and improper alignment on thelast;

I-' have referred to -the-- application= of' a; sole;- while the lasted uppenis retained withimthe con tractil'e recess. It will beeuiidc erstoodi of coursei; that after' the wipihg-zoperation has taken placer the-lasted upperretained within: the S8m=ma$W betransferred toother means;- sole-applying mechanism= for instance, which will secure thfe sole to the lasted upper aiter thesame has been rasped: which sole-may lie-retained inplace by cement alone; or connected to-- the upper: by a;- stitching operation.

It will be understood that the lasted upper as' finally prepared mayberemoved from the-contracti'le recess' for application of" a sole'p whicli may be sewntheretoby any of the well known shoe-sewing machine; and-soles ofdifierent char acter'may-be sewn thereto; It the sole'is to-be cemented" to the shoe; such" operation may: becarriedout-before the lasted upper is-removed-a from the" con-tractile-recess.

It' will-be-understood thatfmodifications mayrbe made inthe steps, of my improved method of making' shoes without'departing" from the' spirit ofrny invention; all of whichis deemed, tube; within the scopeof the appendedplaims.

I'claimr l; The method of manufacturing shoes whichcomprises, positioning an .upper'upona last; pulling said upper over-the last in the positiomof wear and retaining, the. same; in. stretched and? taut condition on and'with the lastwithoutthe use of tacks; inverting such last and upper in its stretched and taut condition and depositing the same ina contractile recess; clamping such lasted and positioned upper around its entire contour to retain it in its stretched and taut condition within the contractile recess, the leather in such position of the upper projecting above the contractile recess; wiping such projecting portion of the upper into position to receive a sole, and thereafter applying a sole thereto.

2. The method of manufacturing shoes which comprises pulling over an upper on a last in the position of wear and retaining the same in a stretched and taut condition on and with said last, said last carrying an insole; inverting such lasted and stretched upper over and depositing the same in a contractile recess; clamping such lasted and positioned upper around its entire contour within the contractile rece'ss whereby the upper is maintained in its stretched and taut condition over the last with a portion of the upper in such position projecting above the contractile recess; wiping the projecting portion of the upper over the insole on the last; applying a cementitious coating to the insole and the wiped portion of the upper, and thereafter securing a sole to the wiped portion of the upper and the insole carried by the last.

3. The method of manufacturing shoes which comprises pulling over an upper on a last in the position of wear without the use of tacks and retaining the same in a stretched and taut condition with said last, said last carrying an insole;

inverting such lasted upper over a contractile recess; clamping such lasted and positioned upper in the contractile recess whereby the upper is maintained in a taut condition over the last with a portion of the upper in such position projecting above the contractile recess; wiping the projecting portion of the lasted upper outwardl and away from the last, and thereafter securing a sole to such outwardly wiped portion of the upper.

4. In the manufacture of shoes, the method of pulling-over an upper and maintaining the same upon a last without the use of tacks which comprises positioning an upper upon a last, the body of the upper projecting beyond the sole portion of the last; stretching the upper in taut condition upon the last by applying traction to such projecting portion and simultaneously retaining it with the last in such taut condition; outwardly wiping such projecting portion into position to receive a sole, and thereafter securing a sole to such upper over the wiped projecting portion of the same.

5. The method of manufacturing shoes which comprises positioning an upper upon a last, said last carrying an insole; disposing such last and positioned upper in the position of wear, said upper having a portion projecting beyond the sole of the last; applying traction to said projecting portion of the upper to pull the same over the last and simultaneously secure the same with the last without the use of tacks; inverting such lasted upper over and depositing the same within a contractile recess; clamping the upper in its stretched and taut condition on the last around its entire contour within said contractile recess;

releasing the traction holding the upper to the last after the lasted upper has been clamped around its entire contour in such contractile recess; wiping the projecting portion of the upper and confining it to the insole, the inner surface of such projecting portion having been coated with cement; rasping the surface of the wiped portion of the upper; applying a sole to the rasped portion of the upper which has been previously coated with cement; removing the lasted upper from the contractile recess, and thereafter allowing such sole to set against the lasted upper.

6. In the manufacture of shoes, the steps of pulling over an upper upon a last and maintaining the same thereon in a stretched and taut condition without the use of tacks which comprises positioning such upper upon a last, the body of the upper projecting beyond the sole portion of the last; stretching the upper in taut condition upon the last and retaining it therewith without the use of tacks by applying traction to such projecting portion of the upper; depositing the lasted upper in a contractile recess and clamping the same therein around its entire contour in the stretched and taut condition, and thereafter releasing the traction which has stretched the upper over the last.

7. The method of pulling-over and lasting shoe uppers without the application of tacks which comprises applying an upper to a last; seating the heel portion of the last in the heel portion of the upper in exact alignment of the latter on the last, the body of the upper projecting outwardly from the last and beyond the sole portion thereof; engaging the projecting portion of the upper at the toe portion of the latter and applying traction thereto to simultaneously stretch the upper over and upon the last and hold the same in stretched condition thereon; such forward traction on the upper drawing the heel portion of the same into close engagement with the heel portion of the last and insuring proper alignment, and thereafter clamping such lasted and positioned upper around its entire contour.

JOHN MILTON ROI-IRER. 

